Pucallpa

Translated as “red earth” from Quechua, the city of Pucallpa is capital of the Ucayali, is the second largest city of the Upper Amazon of Perú. Very different in atmosphere from its touristy neighbor, Iquitos, Pucallpa is growing into its own as an authentic destination to experience indigenous culture and traditions.

Located in the lowland area of ​​the Amazon rainforest, on the Ucayali River, a major tributary of the Amazon river, Pucallpa originated from a small Shipibo-Conibo community settled by the Franciscans in the mid 19^th century. It is largely considered the indigenous heartland of the Peruvian Amazon, a place of convergence of many indigenous groups including Shipibo-conibo, Ashánika, Piro, Cocama, Cashibo, and many more.

Today, Pucallpa has expanded into a bustling commercial trade and communication hub with a population about 300,000 inhabitants, specializing in lumber extraction and petroleum exploration. It is a city bursting with energy and growing exponentially.

Pucallpa is also the gateway East towards some of the largest Amazon natural reserves and natural wonders such as the Sierra del Divisor, with its iconic Cerro El Cono (Cone Mountain), the Cordillera Azul (Blue Mountains) and the Alto Purus National Park, the largest protected area in Peru containing some of the remotest, most rugged and unexplored territory in Amazonia.

There are also many impressive waterfalls in the region to visit such as the Boquerón del Padre Abad (183 Km from Pucallpa) and the waterfalls El Velo de la Novia (Bride’s Veil), and La Ducha del Diablo (Devil’s Shower).

Ensure you take some time to explore Pucallpa on your trip. Take a city walking tour that includes a visit to the Plaza the Armas and stop by the popular local café C’est Si Bon on the square for a smoothie made from guanabana (that is reputed to possess powerful cancer fighting properties) or camu-camu (a fruit claimed to have ten times more vitamin C than oranges). There are some pleasant walks through town avenues in the cool of the evening where you may encounter an interesting new cafe or restaurant serving traditional jungle fare. If you have a free afternoon, may wish also wish to visit Pucallpa’s Parque Natural, a large urban park with botanical gardens, playgrounds, and a small zoo.

If you wish to spend the night, there are are hotels and guesthouses of all price ranges including the Hotel Manish, Casa Andina, the Gavilanes, and more.

Yarinacocha

A fifteen-minute trip by motor taxi from the main square of Pucallpa, you can find the small port of Yarinacocha, settled on a picturesque oxbow lake formed by an old meander of the Ucayali River. Here at the port, you can hire a boat for an interesting day trip to visit local Shipibo-conibo villages such as San Francisco and Santa Clara. The Ucayali has its own rich ecology and is home to many unique aquatic species such as the pink river dolphin, the manatee, and the giant Amazonian otter.

There are also several markets in Yarinacocha that sell local artesanias such as the highly distinctive Shipibo-Conibo kené embroidery, ceramics, and beadwork as well as a fish market if you arrive early enough to the port.

Getting to Pucallpa

Pucallpa by AIR

The easiest port of arrival is by air to Pucallpa’s tiny but busy FAP Captain David Abensur Rengifo International Airport with one of Peru’s regional airlines such as Peruvian Airlines or Lan. There are flights daily from Lima and Iquitos.

Be prepared for weather related delays and cancellations.

Pucallpa by LAND

Bus trips from Lima take 18 hours or more and cost about S/100 with Transmar, Movil Tours and other companies.

You can travel by car from Lima but road conditions can not be guaranteed and can be slow going due to construction, flooding, and the occasional landslide. However, if you embark by car, you cannot miss the 255 km (158-mile) section of highway between Tingo Maria and Pucallpa that features some breathtaking cloud-forests. 

Pucallpa by WATER

It’s possible to travel by slow boat upstream from Iquitos on the Rio Ucayali all year round and downstream from Atalaya. The trip can take as long as six days in some cases. Bring your hammock.